Kashmir and Tourism – Jewel in India’s Crown
My Journeys & Experience across the Valley transcended the mundane and filled me with a Passion for things I hope would dawn upon this Glorious Land. I take the liberty in calling it ‘Glorious’ for it represents all Beauty that is humanly possible, giving credence to that famous Persian phrase — “Agar firdaus bar roo-e zameen ast, Hameen ast-o hameen ast-o hameen ast: If there is a paradise on earth, It is this, it is this, it is this”. Indeed, one of the few places on Earth that is close to God.
Such is the magnitude of achievement of this Valley that the aforementioned cannot be overstated. Be it Arts & Crafts, Cuisine, Religious Identity, Tolerance, Music, Landscapes, Gardens, Lakes, Hospitality, Kashmiris have mastered them all putting Heart and Soul in turning Nature’s bounty into something Wonderful and Celebratory.
Conflict in Kashmir:
Today, Kashmir’s most glaring identity is the troublesome atmosphere that prevails. It’s easy to forget and overlook the many aspects that have made this Valley unique. Charting through the old lanes of Srinagar, walking over many of the wonderful bridges, commuting to Picturesque Districts, navigating through the Lakes and Rivers, one can only wonder with sadness that people can be so capable of destroying in such a short period what has been built over centuries. Militancy and Political stalemate has gripped the Valley for the last two decades and turning a peaceful abode into a flash point between two bitter Neighbors.
The Pandit community, which at one time gave tremendous color to the Ghats of Jhelum and helped in the smooth functioning of the State is largely absent from today’s scene. Their mass exodus in the early 90s is one of the most unfortunate episodes in Post Independent India. It has done tremendous damage to the relations of ordinary Kashmiri Hindus and Muslims. Together with Muslim & Other Communities, the Pandits gave a unique Identity called the Kashmiriyaat that formed the basis of the whole cultural fabric of the Valley. Pandits who left, vow never to come back and those who stayed have not had it easy. Though the Government is trying to woo back displaced Pandit families, only a voluntary return would boost prospects for normalization, not Government Sponsored. It would be a tremendous boost to the Valley if those Influential Pandit or for that matter Muslim families with a now Global Outlook returned to help normalize the situation. Easier said than done.
The general state of Srinagar and many other towns is a telling tale of the decay and mistrust that has engulfed the Valley. Opinions here are varied, from the benign to the wild. Many Groups with different political interests have kept this valley tensed and quickly turning Normalcy into Chaos and total Breakdown. It’s only natural that It’s residents feel like their life is sucked out of them; a pressure cooker whose whistle refuses to blow. The only common thread among the people is a longing for Peace.
Mughal Garden Achbal
Lately though, a ray of hope has emerged. For the last three years, but for sporadic spurts of Violence an unlikely peace has returned to the Valley. Increase in Tourist arrivals seem to vouch for that. Hotels, Tourist hotspots, Highways are being built or refurbished and there has been an increase in budgetary allocation to Government programs. It is a slow process and the overall situation still demands caution: Many places have secret operations taking place, popular destinations like Pahalgam have armed presence and some places in Srinagar are armed to the teeth. Peace here still seems more a mirage that at some point will fade away.
Kashmir and Tourism:
The State of Jammu and Kashmir along with Ladakh has been the premier tour destination for centuries. Hospitality seems to have been invented here that runs through the Kashmiri blood. Right now, It might seem a mighty thought to expect this region to return to normalcy. As an eternal Optimist and drawing parallels from the Punjab conflict I would like to think of the Valley not only returning to Normalcy but also herald a Tourist environment that can rival the best in the World.
As a Tour Operator, my main interest was to gauge its business potential. Would it be wise to spend time and money in knowing most parts of this State in order to sell it to the World. I met business people & college students in Srinagar, ordinary commuters in different towns from Baramullah to Doda distt, people from the Tourism profession in Pahalgam, Shikara guy, Restaurant Owner, Artist, Taxi guy, Teacher, Exporter, Politician, Pandit, people from the Armed Forces, and just about anyone who I could gather sense from. My travels across Kashmir raised the crucial question: “Is Kashmir ready for Tourism”? Does it have the Infrastructure and security that is most essential? What is the current scenario and state of its cities and towns?
Lets start with Srinagar. Besides being the Summer Capital, Srinagar is the hub of all activites in the Valley. Here, administrative plans are laid out and executed from. There are incredible Mosques, Temples and Shrines from the Hazratbal, the beautiful Shahi Hamdan, the amazing Buddhist influenced Jamia Masjid and the mighty Shankaracharya Temple. Other attractions like the Mughal Gardens, Lakes & Springs are being restored in an effort to return Srinagar to some semblance of its past.
Nageen lake in Srinagar
The famous Dal Lake is the prized one – Srinagar’s USP. At this moment, most of Dal Lake is Dirty, Algae infested, Polluted, Ugly and at some places Unapproachable. The tourists get to see only 10 percent of the Lake; mostly restricted to the Boulevard. Her restoration work is moving at snail’s pace and for some reason, most of the stake owners aren’t sure about the plans. Considering the disastrous record of water restoration works in India, hopefully this doesn’t turn that way in terms of Delays, Cost Overruns and Unintended Consequences.
Apart from the sights and sounds of Srinagar, there are day long excursions to Sonamarg, Yusmarg, Wular Lake, Kheer Bhawani, etc. Government is focusing on building or bettering roadways to these destinations. Most of the private business that already existed during serious conflict have reopened and doing brisk business during normal times. No new businesses like Restaurants, Hotels, Eateries, Shopping centers, Malls have opened due to uncertainties. As a result, at peak tourist times, rates for accommodation and food gets expensive. It’s mostly the same case with other destinations like Pahalgam, Gulmarg, etc.
Kashmir has many unknown beauties. The Authorities have recently taken up restoration works at Kokernag, Verinag, Achbal, Arabal, etc. The Mughal gardens at these places are worth a visit for their lush gardens, scenic surrounding valley and flowing rivers. The valley is great for treks in known and unknown valleys. Some of the known and popular treks are in Sonamarg, Shekdur, Gangabal, Vishansar, Gadsar, etc. The valley has many awesome treks including in the popular Gangabal region.
A village scene in Doda distt
If returned to peace, the Valley can once again be one of the great Tour destinations of the World. Based on what I saw, heard and believe, things should only get better. Kashmiri’s have a history of their backs pushed to the Wall. They have suffered many a times only to rise again. Given a chance by all external forces, Kashmiris can once again return their valley to greatness. It’s an uphill task and they have fought a hard battle and are largely responsible for the downside in militancy. It’s that ordinary bloke who can change the face of things for the better. Hard to imagine, but the Politicians, Administrators and Bureaucrats should ensure Transparency, Honesty, Technology to rewrite one of the most tragic chapters in World History.
Government of India and the State of Jammu and Kashmir should come up with Tourism’s best practices in terms of Sustainable, Green, Accessible, Responsible, Secure and a Vibrant system based on localized solutions. There is an opportunity to leap frog tried and tested models and adopt only best practices. In the end, it is Kashmiri’s who should have the greatest say and their voices and opinions must not be ignored. As an unabashed lover of all things Kashmiri, I hope her to be the leader in India’s Tourist landscape; an irreplaceable Jewel in India’s Crown.